The sights of London embrace 2,000 years of history and invoke the tramp of Roman legions, strolling players in the age of Shakespeare, plagues, the Great Fire, the architectural heritage of the Georgian era, the squalid alleyways of Dickens, Victoria's great age of railways and trade, and the Blitz of World War II. In a city of more than 600 art galleries, 150 museums and countless places of interest, considerable planning is needed for sightseeing. The city's tourist attractions are sights you've heard about all your life. You'll want to see them all, but some are absolute musts:
The Tower of London (dating to 1066) is always popular: Get there early if you can, as waits of up to three hours aren't unusual in summer. Huge St. Paul's Cathedral, built by Sir Christopher Wren, can take hours to wander through if you're in the right mood. The other famous church, Westminster Abbey, is where royalty are crowned and some are buried. Across the street is Big Ben clock tower, attached to the Houses of Parliament. Don't expect to see everything in a few hours at the British Museum—there are too many treasures to see and too many other people to navigate through. Art lovers will find paradise at Tate Britain and the new Tate Modern (not to mention the National Gallery). Fans of the literary arts should treat themselves to a tour of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. And for great perspective, take a ride on the giant London Eye Ferris wheel. Beloved by Londoners and visitors alike, it offers fantastic birds-eye views over the city.
Water-taxi service on the Thames allows visitors to venture farther afield. Kew Gardens and Hampton Court Palace are accessible by river from Westminster Pier. Immerse yourself in tranquillity at the former, royal prosperity at the latter.
If you've seen all the major sights—or you just want to escape the crowds for awhile—visit the British Library or the Dulwich Picture Gallery. They're two of our favorite off-the-beaten-track spots in the city.
Landmarks and historic sites
Apsley House—This magnificent palace was once the home of the first Duke of Wellington. Damask-covered walls, elaborate Oriental carpets and ornate furniture are the setting for some exquisite paintings—works by Velazquez, Goya, Correggio, Rubens. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm. £4.50 adults, reduced rates for seniors and children. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1. Phone 7499-5676.
Banqueting House—Built in the early 1600s, it's the only remaining piece of Whitehall Palace, which was destroyed by fire in 1698. Upstairs is a grand hall that was designed for court ceremonies—its ceiling is adorned with paintings by Rubens. A short film and an excellent audio guide are included in the admission price. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. £3.90 adults, reduced rates for seniors and children. Whitehall, SW1. Phone 7930-4179. http://www.hrp.org.uk
Buckingham Palace—The royal residence was opened to the public for the first time in 1993 and will continue to open during late summer at the Queen's discretion. The 1705 palace was refaced with a rather forbidding facade in Victorian times and the interior is overpoweringly baroque. Nineteen rooms are available to view, including the Throne Room, Ballroom and State Dining Room, during August and September. Expect to wait in line. You can purchase advance tickets by phone or over the Internet: 7321-2233 or http://www.royalresidences.com Tickets are also available through the ticket office in Green Park from 9 am daily. £11 adults, reduced rates for families, seniors and children. For recorded information, call 7799-2331.
Witness the changing of the guard after 11:30 am: daily April-June, every other day the rest of the year. Be advised: If it's a cold or rainy day, the guards' trademark red jackets may be covered up by gray overcoats. You can also visit the Royal Mews, where tours of the royal stables are offered year-round Monday-Thursday noon-4 pm.
Hampton Court Palace—About 30 minutes west of London on the Thames, this palace was built in 1515 for Cardinal Wolsey and later given to Henry VIII as a peace offering. You'll find elaborate rooms and a gallery with Renaissance paintings, but the gardens are the highlight. Much of the palace was renovated by Christopher Wren for William III, so those seeking a Tudor fix might leave somewhat disappointed. Monday 10:15 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-6 pm (closes at 4:30 pm 28 October-24 March). Gardens are open 7 am until dusk year-round. £10.50 adults, reduced rates for families, seniors and children. East Molesey, Surrey. Phone 8781-9500. http://www.hrp.org.uk
Houses of Parliament—Most of the year you'll need a permit to visit the Houses of Parliament. The impressive architecture includes the Big Ben clock tower. Free tours are offered on Friday mornings and/or afternoons, depending on when the houses are in session. Send your request—and suggest a range of dates—to the Parliamentary Education Unit, Norman Shaw Building (North), London SW1A 2TT. During summer recess (late July-mid October) the buildings are open to the public, and tickets are available through Ticketmaster (phone 7344-4444). Parliament Square, Westminster, SW1. Phone 7219-2105 or 7219-4600.
Kenwood House—Situated on 112 acres/45 hectares of beautiful, landscaped grounds on Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House contains the Iveagh Bequest, one of the finest art collections in London, including works by Turner, Rembrandt, Gainsborough and Vermeer. During summer, classical concerts with fireworks are staged on the grounds. Daily 10 am-6 pm (to 4 pm November-March). Free. Hampstead Lane, Hampstead, NW3. Phone 7973-3494.
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre—This is a complete reconstruction of the original Globe Theatre, which was destroyed by fire in 1613. It sat 100 yards/90 m from where the new structure is located. Open-air performances are held May-September. The Globe Exhibition, situated beneath the theater itself, offers a fascinating glimpse of Elizabethan theater and audiences and the design and reconstruction of the new Globe. You can also take a guided tour of the "Wooden O." May-September daily 9 am-4 pm (to noon if there's a matinee performance). October-April daily 10 am-5 pm. Tour and exhibition: £7.50 adults. Exhibition only: £5 adults. Reduced rates for seniors and children. New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1. Phone 7902-1500. http://www.shakespeares-globe.org
Somerset House—Beautifully restored Somerset House is fast becoming one of London's must-see attractions. The Great Court, the fountain displays and the gold, silver and mosaics of the Gilbert Collection are all worth seeing. But the hottest attractions are in the Hermitage Rooms, which feature pieces on loan from the Hermitage in Russia. Special exhibits change regularly. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. Free, except for guided tours and admission to the Hermitage Rooms. Timed tickets for the Hermitage Rooms are available through Ticketmaster (phone 7413-3398) and cost £6 adults, with reduced rates for seniors and children. Guided tours of the Gilbert Collection (£5.50) and Somerset House (£2.75) are offered Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Purchase tickets for tours on site. The Strand, WC2. Phone 7845-4600. http://www.somerset-house.org.uk
Tower of London—In its history, the tower has served as castle, prison, royal mint, observatory, place of execution and even zoo. It's now the home of the crown jewels (in the Jewel House). There are also permanent exhibitions of crowns and diamonds in the Martin Tower and armor and armaments in the Royal Armouries. The Tower is immensely popular and crowded. March-October Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. November-February Sunday and Monday 10 am-4 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-4 pm. £11 adults, reduced rates for families, seniors and children. Tower Hill, EC3. Phone 7709-0765. http://www.tower-of-london.com
Trafalgar Square—This busy traffic interchange is surrounded by such grand, historic buildings as St. Martin-in-the-Fields church and the National Gallery. The square is dominated by Nelson's Column with four bronze lions and many, many pigeons. It's also the site of New Year's Eve shenanigans.
Hampstead—With its quaint, village-like feel and surrounding miles of open parkland, Hampstead seems a million miles from the rush and bustle of the rest of London. Popular with writers and actors, it's a wonderful place to spend an afternoon dining in one of the many open-air restaurants and cafes, visiting the antique market or exploring the often untamed wilderness of Hampstead Heath.
Notting Hill—Home to Europe's largest street carnival and the excellent Portobello Road market, Notting Hill should be on every visitor's agenda. Down-at-heel eclecticism and super-chic wealth continue to survive side-by-side, only adding to the area's charm.
Soho—With some of the city's best nightlife centered there, along with numerous restaurants and fashion shops, it's an ideal spot for visitors to gauge London's diversity. On nice summer days, Soho Square offers a small area of calm away from all the bustle.
The Royal Observatory—Home of the Prime Meridian: Visitors can literally stand with one foot in the Eastern Hemisphere and one in the Western. Excellent displays on the history of time and navigation. The red "time ball" is dropped every afternoon at 1 pm. Daily 10 am-5 pm. £6 adults, free for seniors and children. Combined ticket with access to the National Maritime Museum (located on the same site): £10.50 adults, reduced rates for seniors and children. Greenwich Royal Park, SE10. Phone 8858-4422.
Hyde Park—The grounds where the royals once hunted boar are now 360 acres/145 hectares of landscaped parkland with avenues of trees and the Serpentine, an ornamental lake on the site of a long-disappeared river. You'll see cyclists and Rollerbladers in much of the park (cycling isn't permitted at other parks). At Speaker's Corner, near Marble Arch, all forms of humanity vent their obsessions on Sunday mornings. Closes at midnight. Phone 7298-2100.
Regent's Park—The fine and stately site of the London Zoo is fringed by imposing terraced houses. Other features include a rose garden, a mosque, an outdoor theater and places for boating and tennis. Rollerblading is permitted in the evening and early morning hours. Daily 7 am until dusk. Off Marylebone Road near Baker Street, NW1. Phone 7486-7905.
Royal Botanic Gardens—Kew Gardens (as most people call it), west of London, displays a marvelous array of specimens in 300 acres/120 hectares, first planted in the 17th and 18th centuries. Orchids and palms are nurtured in the hothouses. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-7:30 pm. Glasshouse closes at 5 pm. £5 adults, reduced rates for families and children. Kew Road, Richmond, Surrey. Phone 8940-1171. http://www.rbgkew.org.uk
St. James' Park—This is the oldest royal park. It has an ornamental lake, intimate promenades, daily bandstand performances and views of Buckingham Palace. It connects with the plainer but equally pleasant Green Park, once a popular spot for duels. Closes at midnight. The Mall, SW1. Phone 7930-1793.
St. Paul's Cathedral—The fifth cathedral on this site, it is Christopher Wren's masterpiece. Inside the great dome is the acoustically fascinating Whispering Gallery; at the top of the dome is the Golden Gallery, with panoramic views of central London. Audio and guided tours are available. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-4 pm (with occasional changes to accommodate special services). Cathedral only: £5 adults. Galleries: £4.50 adults. Reduced rates for seniors and children. Ludgate Hill, EC4. Phone 7236-4128. http://www.stpauls.co.uk.
Westminster Abbey—This magnificent Gothic building is where England's kings and queens are crowned—and interred. The original building was completed in 1065. Poet's Corner is where many English literary figures are buried or commemorated. Guided tours are available. Monday-Friday 9 am-4:45 pm, Saturday 9 am-2:45 pm. £6 adults, reduced rates for families, seniors and children. Parliament Square, SW1. Phone 7222-7110. http://www.westminster-abbey.org
