London is now one of the premiere culinary cities of Europe, a result, in part, of the restaurant boom of the past few years. Much of the best food borrows flavors and ingredients from around the world. The settings have improved, too.
The new restaurants are high on style: sleek and chic. (Some of the hot spots are in designer hotels such as St. Martin's Lane and the Great Eastern.) Even museums, themselves experiencing renewed popularity, now provide notable eating establishments.
While variety is the key word, specific areas are best for specific cuisines: For the best Chinese, go to Gerrard Street, W1, in Chinatown; for cheap, authentic Indian food, head for Brick Lane, E1; for Middle Eastern, try Edgeware Road, W2. For something cheap and filling, try a pub.
Dining out is expensive. But keep in mind that menu prices always include 17.5% VAT. The gratuity may be added to the bill by your waiter; if not, you are expected to tip 10%-15%. Some restaurants—typically, Italian ones—assess a cover charge (not a tip) of £1-£2 per person, intended to cover the cost of bread or other nibbles placed on the table. It's a good idea to reserve a table at all restaurants, save the most humble.
Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, including tax, but not tip, and not including drinks: $ = less than £10; $$ = £10-£20; $$$ = £21-£50; $$$$ = more than £50.
Favorite restaurants
Aurora—In the highly acclaimed Great Eastern Hotel, Aurora is the epitome of modern British cooking. Elegant, sumptuous surroundings. Open Monday-Friday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Liverpool Street, EC2, London. Phone 7618-7000.
The Blueprint Cafe—Its beautiful setting beside the Thames would likely be enough to lure diners, but combined with the quality and innovation of the food, this place is exceptional. Menu changes daily. Open daily for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Design Museum, Butler's Wharf, SE1, London. Phone 7378-7031.
Cantaloupe—As the Hoxton area becomes more popular, its restaurants of choice change quickly. Cantaloupe is an exception, with Mediterranean-influenced food that is consistently good. You enter the place via an often chaotic front bar, but the restaurant itself is surprisingly calm and relaxed. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 35 Charlotte Rd., EC2, London. Phone 7613-4411.
Cigala—Excellent Spanish fare in a relaxed, yet elegant setting. The seven-page wine list consists solely of vintages from Spain, including many fine cavas and sherries. Open daily for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 54 Lamb's Conduit St., WC1, London. Phone 7405-1717.
Dorchester Grill Room—Hotel dining at its best—quality British cuisine in surroundings of pure elegance. Here's the place to try steak and kidney pie, beef and Yorkshire pudding and English trifle for dessert. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 53 Park Lane (facing Hyde Park), W1, London. Phone 7317-6336.
fish!—The concept is straightforward, the results unbelievably good: Simply mix and match your selection of fresh fish, sauce and cooking method. The service is generally very good, and despite being part of a chain, the restaurant manages to avoid a conveyor-belt mentality. Open daily for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Cathedral Street, SE1, London. Phone 7234-3333.
Le Gavroche—The haute-cuisine establishment of Albert Roux offers exceptionally high standards recognized by numerous awards. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 43 Upper Brook St. (near the U.S. Embassy), Mayfair, W1, London. Phone 7408-0881.
The Sugar Club—After moving from its Notting Hill location, the Sugar Club and its fusion cuisine are still drawing raves. Regular menu favorites include kangaroo and a mouth-watering combination of scallops with sweet-chili sauce. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Warwick St., W1, London. Phone 7437-7776.
Local and regional specialties
Rules—London's oldest restaurant is alive and well, serving classic British cuisine in traditional, intimate surroundings. Game, fish and simple meat dishes are all well prepared with fine ingredients. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2, London. Phone 7836-5314.
Simpson's-in-the-Strand—Excellent traditional English meat and fish dishes are served in the atmosphere of an exclusive gentleman's club. A wide range of fine wines and ports is available. Open Monday-Friday for breakfast, daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 100 Strand, WC2, London. Phone 7836-9112.
Top Floor at Smith's—Quality modern British fare is served at this new restaurant. The food and atmosphere are both superb, and the huge steaks are highly recommended. Where possible, ingredients are mostly organic and additive-free. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 67-77 Charterhouse St., EC1, London. Phone 7236-6666.
Asian
Blue Elephant—This place is widely regarded as one of the best Thai restaurants in London. An extensive vegetarian menu is available. Open daily for dinner only. $$. Most major credit cards. 4 Fulham Broadway, SW6. Phone 7385-6595.
Poons—There are several Poons, all serving delicious Chinese food. We recommend the crispy duck with pancakes. The original on Lisle Street has a very minimalist approach to atmosphere. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards. 27 Lisle St., WC2. Phone 7437-4549.
Royal's Indian Cuisine—Dine on fine, yet inexpensive northern Indian cuisine in Covent Garden. Try the kabob shaslik (spiced lamb roasted in a clay oven) or the trout tandoori. A vegetarian buffet is available every day. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards. 3-7 Endell St., WC2. Phone 7379-1099.
Zaika—This Michelin-starred Indian restaurant couldn't be further from the image of a local curry house in terms of style or price. Exquisite, subtle flavors brought out by unexpected ingredients. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 257-259 Fulham Rd., SW3. Phone 7351-7823.
Breakfast and brunch
M Cafe—A bright, contemporary eatery perfect for a quick breakfast or lunch. In fact, the motto is "breakfast all day." The crowd tends to be young, and it makes a nice break from the nearby Portobello Road shopping frenzy. Open daily for breakfast and lunch (closes at 6:30 pm Monday-Saturday, 4 pm Sunday). $. No credit cards. 12 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill, W10. Phone 7229-3757.
Cafes and tearooms
The Dorchester—Elegant, leisurely afternoon tea is served daily 2:30-6 pm in the Promenade at this hotel. A selection of sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, crumpets, pastries, tea and coffee is brought around continuously by white-gloved waiters. A pianist provides background music. Reservations essential. $$. Most major credit cards. 53 Park Lane (at Hyde Park Corner), W1. Phone 7629-8888.
Fortnum and Mason—The famous department store serves both traditional high tea and afternoon tea Monday-Saturday 3-5:15 pm. (High tea includes a hot dish such as Welsh rarebit or other traditional English foods.) A violinist or pianist usually performs. $ for afternoon tea, $$ for high tea. Most major credit cards. St. James Restaurant, 4th Floor, 181 Piccadilly, W1. Phone 7734-8040.
The Ritz—Afternoon tea is served in the Palm Court of the hotel. Traditional cake stands entice you with a selection of finger sandwiches, scones and pastries. Service can occasionally feel a bit rushed because of the scheduled seatings at 2, 3:30 and 5 pm. (If you want to linger, try the 5 pm tea, because "they won't throw you out if you have a scone on your plate," according to a spokeswoman.) Reservations are required and should be made up to one month in advance for weekdays, up to two months ahead for weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 150 Piccadilly, W1. Phone 7493-8181.
The Savoy—Afternoon tea served daily in this elegant hotel, with a copious stream of sandwiches, cakes and teas. Monday-Saturday 3-5:30 pm. The Sunday tea service, 3-6 pm, includes dancing and music by a four-piece band. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. The Strand, WC2. Phone 7836-4343.
Coffeehouses
Bar Italia—This is one of the liveliest late-night coffee bars in bustling Soho—an authentic blast of Italy, complete with sports TV, frothing cappuccinos, snacks and Formica-top tables. There's a small selection of meals available (around £6), including cooked breakfasts. It's always packed and almost always open (closed Monday-Thursday 5-7 am). $. No credit cards. 22 Frith St., W1. Phone 7437-4520.
French
The Admiralty—The menu features intriguing twists on classic Norman ingredients and includes hearty stews and finely prepared meat dishes. Outstanding wine list. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Somerset House, The Strand, WC2. Phone 7845-4646.
Incognico—Classic French cuisine at astonishingly reasonable prices from chef Nico Ladenis. The three-course set meal (offered noon-7 pm) costs £12.50 and is a particularly good value. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 17 Shaftesbury Ave., WC2. Phone 7836-8866.
Mirabelle—This glamorous place is relatively affordable for a Marco Pierre White restaurant. Savor the relaxed approach to classic French cuisine. The wine list is excellent. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 56 Curzon St., Mayfair, W1. Phone 7499-4636.
Italian (including pizzerias)
Amalfi—Small, cheerful and very affordable Italian eatery in the bustle of Soho. Murals, stucco walls, tile-top tables and candlelight conjure up an old-world feel. The menu includes pastas and pizza, but we like the veal in lemon sauce best. And the tiramisu is definitely up to snuff. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 29-31 Old Compton St., W1. Phone 7437-7284.
Isola—The ultra-smart decor might make you wonder whether style has won out over quality, but Isola's modern Italian fare more than matches its surroundings. For a more informal dining experience, try the osteria in the basement. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 145 Knightsbridge, SW1. Phone 7838-1044.
Kettner's—Unfussy pizza and pasta served in strangely opulent surroundings in a central Soho location. The food is consistently good, with pizzas deserving particular mention. While intimate, private dining rooms can be booked ahead, the rest of us find the Champagne Bar downstairs a good place to wait for a table. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 29 Romilly St., W1. Phone 7734-6112.
Middle Eastern
Maroush I—The largest and most classically Lebanese of the six restaurants in the London-based chain. Feast on spicy meat entrees and no less than 41 rich appetizers such as maroush kalaj (hallowmi cheese in pastry) and warak inab bizeit (stuffed vine leaves), as well as pastries. No alcohol is served. Live entertainment, which might include belly dancers, singers or violinists, is presented nightly 10 pm-2 am. Customers who linger for the entertainment must spend (or be charged) £50 per person. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Edgeware Rd., W2. Phone 7723-0773.
Vegetarian
Blah! Blah! Blah!—Sample vegetarian cuisine at its trendiest and most beautiful, with a strong international influence. The restaurant is high on taste, low on atmosphere. Two or three vegan options are always on the menu. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$. No credit cards. 78 Goldhawk Rd., W12. Phone 8746-1337.
Food for Thought—A longtime favorite in central London, this cozy Covent Garden spot serves up large helpings of hearty but delicious vegetarian fare. The desserts are especially tasty. Arrive early if you want a seat. Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner; Sunday for lunch only. $. No credit cards. 31 Neal St., WC2. Phone 7836-0239.
The Gate—Quite simply one of London's finest vegetarian restaurants and, unlike many of its kind, highly recommended for meat eaters as well. The food is eclectic, featuring diverse ingredients. In summer, the open-air courtyard offers wonderful alfresco dining. Friendly service and a buzzing atmosphere. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 51 Queen Caroline St., W6. Phone 8748-6932.
Additional experiences
Belgo—Medieval meets modern at this ostensibly Belgian restaurant. Waiters dressed as monks serve up moules et frites (mussels and French fries) in a cavernous, loud, neoindustrial setting. As befits Belgian tastes, the fries are served with a mayonnaise-based sauce and the beer selection is impressive (200+ to choose from). You can't beat the early-bird special: mussels, fries and a beer for £5. Monday-Saturday noon-11:30 pm, Sunday noon-10:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 50 Earlham St., Covent Garden, WC2. Phone 7813-2233.
Cafe-in-the-Crypt—This little cafe beneath St. Martin-in-the-Fields church, with its vaulted ceiling and flagstone floor, is an ideal spot to take a break from the bustle of London. At 1 pm on Monday, Tuesday and Friday there are free concerts in the church—a perfect complement to the homemade food. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. $. No credit cards. Trafalgar Square, WC2. Phone 7930-0089.
The Elbow Room—This upmarket billiards hall caters to a young crowd who go there to eat and shoot pool. The diner-style menu offers few surprises, but it is well prepared. There's a £4 admission fee after 10 pm. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $. Visa and MasterCard only. 89-91 Chapel Market, N1. Phone 7278-3244.
The Engineer—Set in idyllic Primrose Hill, just north of Regent's Park, this restaurant serves imaginative Mediterranean and modern English cuisine in a converted pub and inn. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 65 Gloucester Ave., NW1, London. Phone 7722-0950.
Fox & Anchor—This pub traditionally served the meat porters in the Smithfield Market; now it's a regular haunt for tourists, lawyers and stag parties. At 200 years old, this place is still turning out huge, traditional English breakfasts, and it's perhaps the only place in London where you can buy a pint of beer at 7 am. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Charterhouse Street, EC1. Phone 7253-4838.
